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Blocking FAQ

Blocking FAQs

I have been crocheting for a very long time. At the time of writing this, it’s been about 45 years, and I’ve learnt a lot along the way.

Here are my tips and advice for blocking crochet.

What Is Blocking?

Blocking is a term used to describe the process of pinning the crochet out to the proper shape and size. There are several methods used

See How to Block for step by step instructions

Is Blocking Really Necessary?

People often ask if blocking is necessary

The bottom line is that there are no hard and fast rules. You can do what you want — it’s your crochet.

But if you want your work to look neat and professional, blocking will help.

Blocking helps the stitches stand out and gives each one its own clear space. It also sets the work to a particular shape and size. It can also stretch the item slightly, if needed

But do you need to do it to everything you crochet?

Not really. If you're making a doily or snowflakes, it's definitely worth it. But if you are crocheting blocks for a blanket, and they're all going to be joined up, it's probably not worth it, unless the sizes are too different

Is Blocking Permanent?

Sometimes.

If you block acrylic with heat, it will be permanent

Cotton and wool will need a little bit of blocking after each wash

Can You Press Rather Than Block?

Again, it's up to you

BUT

• it will flatten the stitches
• you will not be able to set the work to a particular shape
• if it's acrylic, it may melt your work, and stick to the iron

What Tools are Required For Blocking?

• something firm that you can pin into

• rust-proof pins
• spray bottle
• towels or plastic
• measuring tape
• optional, steam iron or steamer
• optional, blocking templates

What Can You Use as a Blocking Board?

Any firm flat surface that you can put pins in will do

Any type of foam mats, including kids play puzzle mats, floor tiles, or yoga mats

Just a few layers of cardboard wrapped in cling wrap (I like this when I use a template underneath)

A carpeted piece of floor, covered with towels

Even a mattress covered with lots of towels or plastic

Or you can buy proper blocking boards that have grids on them

If you need to block a lot of squares for a blanket, you can put nails onto a wooden square board. Or drill holes that can have small dowels put in

Do you block squares before joining or after?

If your crochet has many pieces, such as granny squares being joined together or pieces of clothing, you will need to block the pieces individually before joining them.

What if it's a big piece?

You can put down lots of towels on the floor, or bed, and pin to that

Is it difficult to do?

No, it’s very easy

How do you know where to block so the piece isn't over stretched?

Push it slightly outwards with your hands. This means it is only being pushed out slightly, rather than being stretched.

How do you do it without damaging the stitches?

Don’t overstretch the item, and use lots of pins.

What Temperature Should the Water Be, and How Long Should It Soak?

It’s a good idea to check the yarn label for the recommended temperature. But if you don’t have the label, or are unsure, lukewarm or even cold water is fine.

Soaking for 5–10 minutes is usually long enough.

A light spray is also fine, but I prefer to saturate the whole item thoroughly.

How long to dry?

This can vary on temperature of the room, humidity, and dampness of the piece

A hairdryer (on cool setting) can help, or a fan

Tips for Wool, Acrylic, Cotton and Other Fibres

Be careful not to overwork wool, as it may felt.

 

Some people believe acrylic can’t be blocked, but I disagree. Blocking works perfectly on acrylic, and is generally permanent. If you overheat it, you might “kill” it, ie, it will go limp. But even when killed, it is still useful, and very soft

Cotton works well with steam blocking, but any other method is also fine.

What pins to use

• You can use any pins that don’t rust
• brass or stainless steel are good options
• nickel plated pins may rust
• wedding dress pins or t pins are generally rust-proof
• you can also buy specific blocking pins and wires
• Another option is to use toothpicks

How to pin?

Pin the centre. Then press the item outwards from the centre using your fingers. Pin again, press outwards again, and continue like this until you reach the outer edges.

I like to use a template under plastic, matching the circles to points on the crochet so I can keep it even.

Do you flip it to dry other side?

No, you pin it right side up only.

Is there any chance that colours will run during the blocking process? What can I do if I’m concerned about this?

This will depend on your yarn. It’s best to test the yarn before starting your project.

 

But if you don’t know, try soaking the yarn or finished item in a vinegar solution for half an hour, then rinse thoroughly. Salt can also help.

How wet does it have to be?

The item doesn’t even have to be wet; you can block it when it’s dry. However, I don’t find this very effective.

I find damp, but not dripping wet, followed by steaming, to be the most effective.

You can press it in a towel to remove some extra moisture.

 

But any level of dampness will do.

Should You Wash It, or Just Dampen It?

It’s a good idea to take this opportunity to wash the item, but this is very much a personal choice

 

Launder it with your usual detergent, as long as it is suitable for the fibre.

It can also be dampened by saturating it in water, then squeezing out the excess water and/or pressing it in a towel.

Alternatively, it can be blocked dry and then steamed, although I don’t find this as effective.

Do You Have to Block It After Each Wash?

Generally, yes. But if acrylic has been heat-blocked, the shaping will be permanent and it won’t need to be blocked after each wash.

Other fibres may need a little blocking after each wash, but this will mostly just involve drying the item flat and shaping it.

How Do I Block Items That Aren’t Square or Round?

The same way, but it’s a good idea to use a template to make sure the shape is even.

What Can Go Wrong?

The main thing to avoid is pulling too hard or not using enough pins at the edges of the work, as this can create scalloped edges and points.

 

You can prevent this by gently pushing the work to the edges and using plenty of pins around the edges.

Blocking wires can also help prevent this.

What Is a Blocking Template?

This is basically a piece of paper with the shape of the item on it. It has circles or squares an equal distance apart, along with markings to help measure your piece to a set shape and size.

For square or rectangular items, you only need a grid, and many foam blocking boards will already have one.

When it comes to circles, doilies or snowflakes, you will need a circle guide with the same number of spokes as the points on your snowflake, doily or circle. If your item doesn’t have points, match the number of starting stitches with the number of spokes instead.

There are some great templates here by Kate Crochets.

http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html

How Do You Use a Blocking Template?

 

If you already have a blocking board with grids or markings, you won’t need a template.

But if you don’t, my preferred way is to print the template on A4 paper. Then put it into a plastic sleeve protector and place it on the blocking board.

If the item is a bit larger, you can use the poster option on your computer to print the template over four or more pages. The pages can then be joined together on the blocking board.

 

If the item is very large, you don’t necessarily need a template. A measuring tape can be useful for keeping the measurements even on all sides.

Do You Need to Use a Blocking Template?

No, but it will help keep your work even and looking professional.

See how to do it here

Have you found this useful?  Please comment below

And feel free to share this blog, but please give me credit for it, and don't share parts of it

Crochet Blocking 101

How to Block

Blocking is a term used to describe the process of pinning the crochet out to the proper shape and size. It separates the stitches and relaxes them into shape.

I have been crocheting for close to 50 years (at the time of writing this), and these are some of the ways I do it

Blocking is great for all fibres, but acrylic will need heat. I prefer to wet block, pin and steam it. This also softens the fibres.

See the FAQs for more information.

Tools required

• something firm that pins can be pinned into

• rust-proof pins
• spray bottle
• towels or plastic
• measuring tape
• optional, steam iron or steamer
• optional, blocking templates

Method

The first step is to sew in all loose ends of the crochet item

Then you need to choose your blocking mat. (see FAQs for ideas)

Make sure you have one large enough to lay your item flat

Now is a good opportunity to wash your crochet item if desired, and rinse well

If not, decide whether you want to do a dry steam block or wet block, or spray only

For wet blocking only. Submerge the item fully, and soak for several minutes.

Remove and squeeze well. Do not wring

Roll into a towel, and press to remove more moisture

Blocking square or rectangle items

Line up and pin along one edge, without stretching, but pull slightly to spread the stitches.

Measure the edge, and pull the left side down to match the measurement. 


If you have a grid you can easily line it up. Do the same with the bottom and side of the item

Remove pins, and repin as needed until every edge measures the same


Push the crochet across, rather than stretch with pins

 

 

 

 

Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the 

last row. 

 

 

 

Don’t pull the crochet outward too much with the pins, as this can create a scalloped edge.

Be careful not to get the scalloped edge

Finished

Blocking circles and snowflakes

Decide on your blocking template, matching number of spokes, if you’re using one. I prefer to use one on round items to get the shape even

I like the ones from here:  http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html


Some people just stretch the outer edge, but this only stretches the stitches and may make the work uneven. It's a much better idea to put pins in at regular intervals

Line up the center of the wet or dry item with the center of the template or board. Pin it in the center

Decide on a row of the doily close to the center. Line up with the spokes of the template. Push it towards the outside, pin.

Line up another spoke with the same row of crochet, pin again

Do this all the way around. 

Then decide on another row, and repeat the process

Continue until you reach the edge of the crochet item


Have a close look at the item, to see if everything is even, and if any more pins are needed

Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the last row. Don’t pull the crochet outward too much with the pins, as this can create a scalloped edge.

If you choose to spray block, spray all over, making it slightly damp and then leave it somewhere to dry thoroughly

Steaming All Shapes

Now you can either spray with water till damp and then steam the item, or just steam on the dry item

To steam, use a steamer, or iron on highest setting with steam selected

Hold the iron or steamer about 5 cm away from the item for 10–15 seconds in each section before moving to the next section. Do not touch the iron to the item

Continue until the whole item has been steamed.

Leave the item in an airy place until cold and fully dry, possibly more than one day

When fully dry remove the pins

And it's done

Have a question? You may find the answer here.    https://craftcove.blogspot.com/2019/01/blocking-faq.html

Have you found this tutorial useful? Please leave a comment below.

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